Que Bello Giorno/Pizza 2000

 


Yesterday (Sunday May 15th) was awesome! It was the 1 full day Jes would have with me in Cagli, and it rained pretty much all day. Yet, for me, I think this will be one of the most memorable days of the trip.

The morning was beautiful, warm and sunny. I gave the tour of the farm and the gardens, and we walked down to the lake, pointing out the wild cherry, fig, and apple trees on the way. I go to this lake often, but as we approached there was a peculiar stirring of fish, frogs and birds. Never before had this lake seemed so alive. We sat on the dock watching the coming storm, listening to the wildlife. Small fish were surfacing so often, at times it looked like it could have been raining.

When the weather began to look threatening we headed back to the house. The plan for the day had been to climb Mt Catria. But due to the impending rain, we decided to head to a nearby Canyon called Passa de Furlo instead. In my past experience it has only rained here for short periods, so we stopped for panini, hoping it would pass quickly. No such luck. We drove back and forth through the canyon, wishing we didn't have to be highway tourists. Passa de Furlo is gorgeous. It reminds me of Kings Canyon in California. It is very narrow with huge rock walls rising up on both sides. The river is dammed at the east end, so for the last half kilometer you are driving next to a narrow little lake. Right before you leave the canyon, the road passes through a tunnel that was carved out by the Romans. Apparently this canyon lies on an ancient route from Roma to Fano, one of the most important sea ports of that time. I can only imagine what the canyon must have been like that long ago!

The rain lightened up, so we decided drive up a windy little road that was supposed to lead to a trailhead above the canyon. But as we climbed the weather worsened again. Near the top, we came across 4 stranded hikers, soaked to the bone, and completely lost. They had climbed up from the opposite end of the canyon, and lost their way due to the low visibility caused by the rain and fog. So, we gave them a ride to their car. They were very nice old folks–English citizens now living in Pesaro. They were very thankful we had come to save them. With lots of thanks, they insisted on us taking their phone number and made an invitation to stay in Pesaro any time we'd like, with a promise to open a very special bottle of wine on the occasion. Too bad we have no time!

At this point Jes and I decided to cut our losses and head for shelter. So, we drove to Urbino. Urbino is the largest town in the area, home to a university, and some very impressive architecture. While it is no match for nature, it was worth the visit. Of course, once we got to the town the rain let up. We spent a few hours walking around the historical center, and discovered a few interesting shops, parks, gardens, ect. Tiny little walkways wound between brick buildings. They were often quite steep, and lined with moss. It was such an strange and fascinating urban-scape.

Finally we headed to Aqualagna and Bruno's restaurant, "Pizzeria 2000". The name, and the fact that this restaurant is near the autostrada made me wary. I was halfway expecting something along the lines of and Italian take on Pub and Sub. We pulled up in front of a low, long purple building with a neon "Pizzeria 2000" sign. To our surprise we entered to two shabby sheik dinning rooms, with formal white table clothes, wine glasses, and all the decor of a fancy joint. The menu had a long list of very interesting pizzas, and an option for a 4 course meal (antipasti, primi piati, secondi, dolci). In the nearest dinning room, Bruno was tossing pizzas into an enormous wood-fire oven.

We ordered a pork chop and some fried greens, and a pizza with tomato, mozzarella, spinach, roasted potatoes and salsice. Dessert was chocolate and mascarpone. It was fantastic! Bruno is a pizza master. After dinner he came out of the kitchen with a bottle of limoncello and sat down for a chat. As he was getting up to go back to work he said, "questa note, non paggi". "Non paggiamo!?" we exclaimed. We tried, but to no avail. È gratis. As we were pulling out of the parking lot, he ran out with two "Pizzeria 2000" t-shirts. I cannot believe my fortune. I have found such genuine, kind people here. Millè grazie Bruno!